A Visit to the Kamkhya Temple

Me and my brother Ajoy made this trip in July 2005 and explored the facets of Kamakhya including the ancient route

The Temple of Kamakhya
Nestled atop the 160 metre high sacred Neelanchal Parbat (Blue Mountain) or Kamagiri, overlooking the city of Guwahati, is the ancient temple of Kamkhya. The temple is one of the most famous religious landmarks of Hindu religion and its history speaks volumes about the rich historical treasure of the state of Assam.

The Kamakhya Temple is one of the famous Shakti Temples of India. It is regarded as one of the main centres of Tantricism. Some scholars and religious leaders are of opinion that Tantricism originated here. Some others also point to the fact that the original name of Guwahati (Pragjyotisapura) was associated with Solar worship or it was a seat of astronomical studies. Whatever be the fact, there are very few relics that could show the real facts.
The Prototype kamkhya Temple This small prototype temple is meant for devotees who are in a hurry and do not have the time to stand in long queues. A smart short-cut to worship!

Kamakhya preserves shrines of ten different aspects of the devi, such as Kali, Tara, Suruchi, Bhubane-Swari, Bhairavi, Chinna Masta, Dhumavati, Bagala, Matangi and Kamala.

According to records available, the original temple constructed by Viswakarma was destroyed in the early part of the 16th century AD, by the vandalism of the iconoclast Kalapahar. The present temple was rebuilt by Naranarayan, one of the illustrious kings of the Koc kingdom, in 1565 AD. However, the sculptures and carved components in rocks dates back to 6th Century A.D.

Ajoy explores the pond near the temple
According to the legend, the pond was constructed by Lord Viswakarma. The Pandavas are believed to have bathed here during exile while they were scouting the jungles of Assam.

The emergence of Kamakhya as a presiding deity of ancient Pragjyotisapur, mediaeval Kamarupa, is connected with the aryanisation of the land under the reign of Narakasura who founded the kingdom by defeating the Kiratas. Kamakhya, the Yoni Goddess, was worshipped by the aboriginals of the state and subsequently she was aryanised.

The legend
The legend attached to the history of Kamakhya temple dates back to the mythological age. According to the legend, Sati, the wife of Lord Shiva (one of the holy Trinities in Hindu mythology) took her life at a ‘Yagna’ ceremony organized by her father Daksha. Dahksha had hurled insults on Lord Shiva during the Yagna which compelled Sati to kill herself. On hearing the news of his wife’s death, Shiva, the destroyer flew into a rage and punished Daksha by replacing his head with that of a goat. Thereafter, Shiva picked up the corpse of his beloved wife Sati and performed the dance of destruction -- Tandava. The intensity of Shiva’s fury was so overwhelming that it took several Gods to pacify his anger. Amidst these, Sati’s corpse was cut into 51 parts by Lord Vishnu ‘Sudershan Charka’. Sati genitalia or ‘Yoni’ fell on the spot which is today the Kamakhya temple.

Stone carvings enroute the ancient way



Another legend on the temple goes that after Sati’s death and the fragmentation of her body by Vishnu, Kama, the demi-God of love, was sent to end Shiva's mourning. Lord Shiva grew furious and opened his third eye reducing Kama to ashes. Rati, Kama's wife, prayed to Shiva to restore her husband. On being pacified by Rati’s worship, Lord Shiva brought Kama back to life but without his original grace and beauty. Shiva agreed to restore Kama to his original self if they erected a temple on the yoni of Sati at Neelanchala. Thus the first temple was constructed by the demi-Gods themselves with the help of their principal architect, Viswakarma. Once the temple was built Kama was restored to his original state. Legend also points to the fact that it took Viswakarma about a day to construct the temple and its ponds and stairways.
Enroute Kamakhya
As you drive up towards the temple, you can stop to witness a panoramic view of the outskirts of Guwahati city.



Other Legends...
There are several popular legends associated with the building of the temple and its environs. Brahma, after having created the universe, arrogated to himself the supreme creative force. The goddess Sati noticed this arrogance of Brahma and created out of her own body a demon named Kesi, who rushed towards Brahma to swallow him up. Brahma fled in terror and took refuge in Vishnu. The demon then built a city called Kesipura and began to harass the three worlds. Brahma cast aside his vanity and in the presence of Vishnu offered a hymn of propitiation to the goddess. The goddess was satisfied and burnt up the demon to ashes. As a sign of atonement Brahma was to create a mountain out of the ashes of Kesi, the burnt demon. As a symbol of her creative force the goddess placed her yoni on the mountain of ashes. Brahma then brought luminous light from the sky and placed it on the yoni signifying that creation was to be the joint responsibility of the male and the female.

Our Trip...Visually
The Sacred Pond
This sacred pond seen at the backdrop has old tortoises which locals believe are as old as the temple itself. The water of this pond is sacred and devotees are not allowed to bathe here or wash their feets.

View of the City
Guwahati city is a traveller’s delight when seen from the Kamakhya Temple. I shoot the scene as Ajoy sights the panoramic view.

Trecking Downhill through the Ancient Route
Down the ancient route me and Ajoy enjoyed the steep slide amidst tantriks smiling at us. We also saw several stone carvings that date back to 6th century A.D.
The Ancient Entrance
This was the ancient entrance to the Kamakhya Temple. This is believed to have been created by Lord Viswakarma.